Crash

EVENT:

12:00 AM last night. was heading east on California Blvd towards Fair Oaks. ACTIVE NIGHT CONSTRUCTION shut down two lanes to only the right lane. the construction was about one block, as i found out the hard way later, continued into the middle of the intersection. on the approach it was clear from the cones and blinking yellow barriers. i had a green and did not accelerate but continued my pace of 25-30 mph, trying to be safe. as i got closer to the intersection the light turned YELLOW and at the SAME TIME noticed a CRV in the opposite direction, middle of the intersection, prepared to make a unprotected left turn. the construction had kept her from my view until i had gotten too close. not sure if she could see me i decided to squeeze both brakes rather than gun through it, thinking if she decides to go for it, it would be perfect timing for a collision. somehow i knew it was a she driving. i had been practicing my quick stops all week and for about a second was slowing well. then i hit a wide patch of black rubbery slippery construction road repair right before the intersection. and a storm was coming so the air was humid and probably put a film of dew over that part of the road. i laid my bike down on the left side, rolled once as i watched her slide into the middle of the intersection, sparks flying from the left peg. the left frame slider took the initial impact, but the snapped off. it continued to slide on the bar ends and exhaust, digging a nice dent into my fuel tank. i will post pics of the damage later.

DAMAGE TO ME: i only suffered a scraped left kneecap and a 2 inch vertical gash on my right shin. bruised ego.

DAMAGE TO MY BIKE: broken gear shift lever, broken left peg, scraped left exhaust, frame slider snapped off (did its job i guess), minor scrapes on headlight, mirror, clutch lever, bar end. nasty dent on left side of tank from handle bars. bent handle bar?

AFTERMATH: lady was nice enough to pull over and ask if i was OK. Craig came and helped bend the remaining gear shift lever so i could at least make it home. on the way back, i actually saw very frequent flashes of lightning.

CONCLUSION:

yeah it could have been worse. so were my actions correct? i actually forsaw danger and tried to be safe. keep going over in my head the compound variables. the construction. it was night. i couldn't read the other drivers face for a reaction. the bright lights in my face. the slick road surface. the humid air. i suppose had i been going even slower this might have prevented this, but it was late and could not see the opposite traffic. my only other option would be to gun it through the yellow, but that was a risk i knew had a slimmer chance. so i tried to brake.

this one might have to go under "shit happens" as i saw the danger, reacted to it, but was taken over by horrible road conditions and weather. it sucks knowing about the danger and then still being taken over by it.

it'll be a few weeks until my wounds heal, and perhaps longer for my to repair the shift lever, peg, and tank.

LESSON: ride like a grandma through construction in an intersection (15 MPH). avoid road repair rubber, especially if it is moist.

Miles 12231: 12K Service Part 2

Checked Spark Plug Gap
Synced Carburetors
Replaced Fuel Filter
Recharged K&N Air Filter

Just C-clamped one of the fuel hoses while I replaced the fuel filter. worked like a charm. pop off, pop on.

Carb Sync

i build my own manometer using some 1/4 inch plastic tubing, wooden board, and used some 1/4 inch sprinkler elbow fittings as nipples. All Home Depot.

IDLE VERTICAL CYLINDER (RIGHT)
3.25 turns out from seated

IDLE HORIZONTAL CYLINDER (LEFT)

3.5 turns out from seated

Since the bike has been running rich from the looks of the spark plug I'm gonna lean both cylinders back to 3 TURNS.

Spark Plug Gapping

The spark plugs were NGK DPR8EA 9 gapped at .034". They were black and sooty indicating the bike is running rich. I've replaced them with OEM Champions gapped at factory .024". I will probably consider trying iridiums gapped at a wider .034" again in the future. I will be doing a carb sync and adjustment today.

Miles 12215: 12K SERVICE

Valve Adjustment
Replaced Belts
Replaced Spark Plugs (OEM Champions)
Installed Cycle Cat Frame Sliders
Chain Adjustment

Valve Adjustment

The valve adjustment just took about 6-7 hours with the help of Derek. The most difficult part was pressing down on the lower rocker arm to remove the closing shims. The spring tension is high, so to press down on the rocker arm while removing/reinstalling the moon shims definitely needed the help of two people.

We ran into one problem removing the closing shim on the horizontal intake cylinder. the top of the valve had expanded a few ten thousands of an inch. Also the closing shim was so pounded metal had rolled into the inside of the shim making it difficult to pull out. So we fashioned a tool using a tie rod tool, 16mm hex, and a plastic bottle cap. it provided just the right slow incremental forced needed to pull the shim out.



Installing the new shim on this same valve also got stuck. So the inside of the shim needed to be sanded with some 400 grit.

Measuring and calculation was another daunting task. Measuring the closing shims would have been much faster using an adapter no longer produced, so hunting it down will be interesting. Another trick is to use a washer (or opening shim) to use as a constant additive number, but provide a much easier time to measure. mm to inches was also a bitch conversion. Overall it was the first time and the learning curve was steep. Thank goodness for Derek's help.

Next up: Replace Fuel Filter

12K and beyond

i'm at about 121xx miles, which is about time for its 12k service. I plan on performing a valve job, replace spark plugs, replace belts. Here is a shopping list:

Tools

Micrometer
Feeler Gauges
Needle Nose Pliers
Anti-seize compound
1/4, 1.8 inch ball bearing (for chain rivet)
telescoping magnet
ratchet allen set

Parts

Gaskets
Shims
Fuel Filter
Spark Plugs (NGK DCPR8E, Autolite 4164, Denso Iridium) set to .9mm
new belts
brake/clutch fluid (Castrol DOT4)

Future repair sessions might include a chain replacement and upgrading to 14 tooth sprocket.

General Torque Specs

taken from the Haynes manual, '91-'96 version and LT Snyder's, first edition

General M6 bolt 9 Nm
General M8 bolt 23 Nm
General M10 bolt 35 Nm
General M12 bolt 55 Nm



Alternator nut 157 Nm
Alternator stator bolts 8-10 Nm
Brake banjo bolts 17-20 Nm
Brake caliper joining bolts 33 Nm
Cam belt pulley nuts on camshafts 70-75 Nm
Cam belt pulley nut on driveshaft 60-65 Nm
Cam belt driveshaft gear nut 40-45 Nm
Clutch housing, 900 and early 750 30-34 Nm
Clutch nut 137-147 Nm
Clutch hose union bolts 17-20 Nm
Chain adjuster, Monster 8 Nm
Connecting rod big end 1st stage 20 Nm
2nd stage 35 Nm
3rd stage 63.6-68.5 Nm

Crankcase bolts M8 23-25 Nm
M6 8-10 Nm
Cylinder head nuts 1st stage 15 Nm
2nd stage 30 Nm
3rd stage 900 w/ old studs 41-43 Nm
3rd stage 600/750 and 900 w/ new studs 38-40 Nm
Disc mounting bolts 26 Nm
Engine mounting bolts 40-45 Nm
Exhaust flange nut 23-25 Nm
Fork top bolt Showa 35 Nm
Marzocchi 25 Nm
Front axle nut 70-76 Nm
Front axle clamp bolts 20-25 Nm
Front brake calipers 35-38 Nm
Gear change pedal 23-25 Nm
Gear shaft bearing retainer bolts 8-10 Nm
Handlebar clamp 22-27 Nm
Low fuel level sensor 32-35 Nm
Oil drain 40-44 Nm
Oil pressure switch 18-20 Nm
Oil pump mounting bolts M8 23-25 Nm
M6 8-10 Nm
Pick-up coils 4-6 Nm
Primary drive gear nut 110-120 Nm
Rear axle nut 70-76 Nm
Rear brake caliper 23-25 Nm
Rear brake pedal 23-25 Nm
Rear shock Upper 39-44 Nm
Lower 34-37 Nm
Rear suspension linkage arm to frame bolt 34-37 Nm
Rear suspension linkage arm to linkage fork bolt 34-37 Nm
Rear suspension ball joint locknut to linkage fork 34-37 Nm
Rear suspension linkage fork to swingarm bolt 22-24 Nm
Spark plugs 29 Nm
Starter motor mounting bolts 8-10 Nm
Steering head nut 40-45 Nm
Swingarm pivot pin clamp 34-37 Nm
Top yoke pinch bolts M8 20-25 Nm
Top yoke pinch bolts M10 35-38 Nm

Miles 11641: Oil and Oil Filter

Put in 3 qts of MOTUL 300V 15W50. OEM Ducati Oil Filter.

NEXT OIL CHANGE: 14641 Miles

Also been using PJ1 Black Label Chain lube every 300 miles or so. For me that's an application every weekend!

Replaced Ignition Relay

I've been having trouble starting the bike. I replaced the standard relay Siemens V23073 with a Motratech MGR-C20 Relay and it started up beautifully. They were only $5 each and $8 for shipping.

SYMPTOMS: Good Battery. Turn key and all lights on normal. Clutch in, press ignition and SILENCE. No ignition turning nothing. If you press and hold in the ignition for 10-20 seconds sometimes it will fire up, with careful throttle control. Continuously took longer "press and hold" times to start.

Theory A: These relays do not withstand vibration well. When closed, the points bounce open and when open, they bounce closed. The resulting arcing causes the points to pit and burn.

Theory B: With no arc suppression across the V23073's coil, the energy stored in its magnetic field dissipates by arcing across the contacts when the relay is de-energized. The resistor across the coil in the MGR series relays absorbs the energy and protects the contacts and other circuits connected to the contacts. In addition, the MGR series relays have been tested over the full range of vibration frequencies equivalent to the range of RPMs involved without contact bounce.

SOLUTION: Stock OEM ignition relay Siemens V23073 became loose inside due to vibration. Replaced it with Motratech MGR-C20 Relay.

Motratech

Miles: 10551

Happy Birthday to ME!

i decided to start a blog to keep track of Ducky Darko's history and service records.

2002 Ducati Monster M750D

Date Aquired: 12/08/07
Miles: 9960